Fiery Ferments

We won’t even try to say we didn’t already love our friends Kirsten and Christopher Shockey of ferment.works (National Tour Dates) but getting this book has been the best thing that has happened in the last year.

This is a really good basic cookbook and primer on fermentation for professional chefs, cooks, farmers, fermenters, and institutions like libraries, schools, and community centers that would greatly benefit from what this book includes. It’s way more than about hot sauce.

Kirsten and Christopher Shockey bring something that makes this book a real treasure for professional chefs, cooks and food lovers whether they are working from a home or local farm community: they have actually made the things in this book before and they detail every step that takes place. In some cases that can be up to a year! Fear not, though, They and the people that created this work know us well enough to provide some quick recipes and some clever workarounds.

The introduction by one of our long time heroines Darra Goldstein is enough for us to snap any book up. But we already loved the Shockey’s last book as much as we loved Professor Goldstein’s books (obviously the ones on Russian and Georgian foods as well as Cured. We love that this book includes reference to some of the lactofermented foods we’ll include in our in progress book, Sour Russian (2019), but that’s just a few of some truly unique recipes.

Kirsten’s Banana Story following a recipe for fried bananas with a pineapple habanero syrup tells you where she comes from, and the underlying celebration of culture and living that is as wonderful and bracing for multiple reasons in the recipes for hot ferments, pepper facts, and spice lore.

If you don’t like fire you could substitute any hot pepper with a sweet one, or even a semi-dried cucumber or zucchini when your garden demands you do so. The fact that the book brings a probiotic, lactofermented approach to many classics and some really cool inventions at the same time demonstrates a belief we chefs, fermenters, and health conscious people believe. Eat locally, sustainably and real food with nutrient rich quality whenever you can.

Fermentation as preservation is one of the ways that can be accomplished. It’s the ultimate lagniappe of eating great tasting food! Want some great ideas on how to make tempeh, tofu, grains, toast and even homemade sausages explode with flavor? It’s in this book that is also available a a paperback or Kindle book at Amazon and all these places!

The peppers and spice background and technique sections would have made this book indispensable without a single recipe. But if spicy food is your thing the Extinguishing the Fire in the Sauces chapter – another brilliant reference section for any chef or fermenter – is the most useful thing you’ll read on the subject. Because unless you are in a professional, well equipped kitchen you won’t be able to stick you head in a vat of frozen, syrupy vodka in a walk in freezer.

This also seems to be the year of rhubarb the vegetable and super pickle especially chutney ingredient. Their rhubarb or cucumber achar recipes are absolutely thrilling. The absolute best step by step recipe on how to make gochujang we’ve ever read – a riff on Emily Kim’s @maangchi recipe from her book – as well as a clever 2 to 3 week hot fix very similar to an old style Chinese fermented wheat paste based sauce.

There is so much more. It’s just the right time of the year in the US to get ready to eat and enjoy! Buy this book now! It’s truly one of those rare books that chefs and home cooks will have on hand and at hand for years to come.

Reviewed by Chef Ken Fornataro of culturesgroup.net

Green Kimchi

Daikon radish, leafy Nappa cabbage, salt, puréed garlic, ginger, green apples, lime juice and ferment for about 21 days then refrigerate. We put a mashed potato and lots of kombu in this one. After a few days we tasted and stirred in some crushed lime leaves (kaffir), Szechuan peppercorns and some Himalayan salt.  #wildfermentation #chefkenfornataro #bostonpotter #contrabandferments #justfoodnyc #sandorkatz #rootandrise #kimchi #lactofermentation #microbiology#foodmicrobiology #fermentationonwheels #sandiegofermentersclub #austinferments #portlandfermentationfestival #brooklynbreadnerd #sourdough #matcha #culturesgroup #chefkenfornataro #greentea #milkkefir #rawmilk #foodmicrobiology #chefs #koji #fermented #fermentation#microbiology #austinferments #newyork #wildyeast

IMG_3999

IMG_4003

IMG_4005

What Goes In? Does demography influence what comes out?

We desperately need to get thousands of more samples to start to really determine what the “typical” American gut really contains. Measuring all the bacteria, etc. that we are primarily made of is called metabolomics. My point was that none of this is really going to be able to tell us much without really getting a good idea of demography. What’s that? See below. Questions? Post them here if you like.
Sign up for my buddy Dr. Elisabeth Bic’s incredible digest (http://www.microbiomedigest.com/) on interesting animal, human, yeast, fungus, bacteria, etc. microbiology papers from scientific journals and the general media. So the next time someone comes at you with a statement such as caesarian births cause a lifetime of tooth decay you can say, “Well, which research specifically do you believe shows causality as opposed to association?
Or, you’ll know specifically what collection of yeasts and bacteria (lots of them actually) make up a food like yogurt or milk kefir. http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2014/12/17/350633709/behind-the-scenes-at-the-lab-that-fingerprints-microbiomes?utm_medium=RSS&utm_campaign=science
Demography: This review paper, ” The demographic determinants of human microbiome health”
Sylvie Estrela, Marvin Whiteley, Sam P. Brown is truly exciting: “Highlights
•Metabolic interactions drive demographic feedbacks between species.
•Demographic feedbacks strengthen or attenuate underlying metabolic interactions.
•Demography is a key determinant of microbiome development and functioning.
•Treatment strategies must consider the dynamical properties of species interactions.
The human microbiome is a vast reservoir of microbial diversity and increasingly recognized to have a fundamental role in human health. In polymicrobial communities, the presence of one species can modulate the demography (i.e., growth and distribution) of other species. These demographic impacts generate feedbacks in multispecies interactions, which can be magnified in spatially structured populations (e.g., host-associated communities). Here, we argue that demographic feedbacks between species are central to microbiome development, shaping whether and how potential metabolic interactions come to be realized between expanding lineages of bacteria. Understanding how demographic feedbacks tune metabolic interactions and in turn shape microbiome structure and function is now a key challenge to our abilities to better manage microbiome health.”